Praying Mantis Care Guide

(Generalised for the hobby not Genus/Species specific)

 

Temperature & Heating

Most mantis originate from warmer regions such as Africa, Asia and South America, so UK room temperatures are often too low for them to thrive.

To maintain appropriate temperatures, you may need:

• A heated room (e.g. space heater)

• A heat mat (with thermostat)

• A heat bulb (with dimming thermostat)

A thermostat is essential. Running heating equipment without one risk both your mantis’ life and potential fire hazards.

If using a heat mat, place it on the side of the enclosure, never underneath, so the mantis can move away from the heat if needed.

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Different species will have different temperature requirements. So make sure to delve into the species specifics either online or via a facebook group. 

Praying Mantis Advice, Care & Chat   

Humidity & Hydration

Mantis generally do not tolerate consistently high humidity.

Light misting once per day (typically evenings) is recommended

Allow the enclosure to fully dry between misting

Adjust frequency depending on species and life stage

Use a fine mist spray bottle with spring water or treated water (e.g. ReptiSafe). Tap water may contain chemicals that can be harmful.

Mantis drink from water droplets on surfaces and gain hydration from their prey.

A thermometer and hygrometer are essential to monitor conditions accurately.

 

 

Adult size & Gender Determination

 

Mantis size varies significantly depending on species, ranging from around 3 cm to 17 cm as adults.

Females are typically larger than males

Some species (e.g. Orchid mantis) show extreme size differences

Most species mature around:

Males: I7

Females: I8

However, some species differ (e.g. African Lined Mantis reaching adulthood at I10).

Gender can usually be determined from I3–I4 onwards by counting abdominal segments:

Males: 7–8 segments

Females: 5–6 segments

This method is unreliable before this stage. Some species also show visual differences such as crowns or shields.

 

Feeding  

 

Mantis eat predominantly flying prey, progressing from smaller fruit flies

Drosophila melanogaster (Small) to Drosophila hydei (Large) when first hatched to approx I3 (Species specific), to green bottles and then blue bottle flies.  

They may also enjoy wax worms and wax moths as a treat.  

Mantis primarily eat live prey, typically progressing as they grow:

Hatchlings → Drosophila melanogaster

Juveniles → Drosophila hydei

Larger nymphs/adults → Green bottles, blue bottles

Other suitable foods:

House flies

Curly wing flies

Locusts (with supervision)

Dubia roaches

Moths

Waxworms (treat only)

 

⚠️ Important:

Remove uneaten prey promptly

Avoid mealworms (hard to digest chitin)

Do not feed crickets due to disease risk and potential harm

Feeding frequency varies. Use abdomen size as a guide:

Flat abdomen → hungry

Plump abdomen → well fed

General guide:

Hatchlings: every other day

Nymphs: ~3× per week

Adults: ~2× per week

A varied diet is strongly recommended for overall health and fertility.
 

Moulting

Moulting is how mantis grow by shedding their exoskeleton.

Signs of moulting:

Hanging at the top of enclosure

Reduced movement

Loss of appetite

Pulsating abdomen

 

Mantis typically moult every 2–4 weeks, depending on:

Age

Temperature & humidity

Feeding frequency

Species

They usually require 6–9 moults to reach adulthood. Wings indicate adulthood.

The moulting process:

Takes ~20–30 minutes

Final moult (to adult) takes longer due to wing expansion

⚠️ Do not disturb during moulting. This can cause fatal mismoults.

After moulting:

Allow 24–48 hours before feeding or handling

Mantis are extremely fragile during this time

 

 

Housing  

 

A suitable enclosure is critical for survival and successful moulting.

Basic guidelines:

Height: at least 3× the mantis length

Width: at least 2× the mantis length

Young mantis can start in ventilated cups (e.g. 32oz), upgrading as they grow.

 

Best enclosure types:

Acrylic with mesh/organza top

Full mesh enclosures (required for some species)

Ventilation is crucial. Poor airflow can lead to fatal humidity build-up.

 

Setup tips:

Provide hanging points (mesh lid, branches)

Keep enclosures simple until adulthood

Use kitchen roll or substrate (clean regularly)

Branches from outdoors must be:

Washed

Oven-treated (100°C for 1 hour)

Bioactive setups can be used as a self-maintaining environment.

⚠️ Important rules:

• Never use glass-only enclosures (poor ventilation)

• Do not house mantis together (high cannibalism risk)

• Avoid placing enclosures side-by-side (prevents “eye rub” injuries)

 

If you want your mantis to thrive, not just survive, their:

• Temperature

• Humidity

• Diet

• Enclosure

must be correct.

Keeping them slightly warm on top of another enclosure or in ambient room heat is not sufficient. Low temperatures slow metabolism, digestion, and ultimately shorten lifespan.

Take the time to research your species properly and provide the correct care.